Philodendron Verrucosum – Pro Care Tips

Philodendron verrucosum is a species of flowering plant in the family Araceae. It is native to Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.

Philodendron verrucosum is a colorful Philodendron with velvety leaves. It is a hemiepiphyte that starts its life as a seed growing in the canopy of trees and is eventually reaching the soil with its roots.

A hemiepiphyte is a plant that grows at least for a part of its lifecycle as an epiphyte. Epiphytes are plants that are growing attached to other trees.

There are many variants of Philodendron verrucosum, but at least two distinct forms can be differentiated.

The Philodendron verrucosum with the red on the backside of the leaf blade and the variant with the green backside.

However, the verrucosum species has many more different types to offer.

Some of the Philodendron verrucosum have a hairy (pubescence) petiole unlike the other heart-shaped species such as the Philodendron Gloriosum or the Philodendron Pastazanum.

Philodendron Verrucosum Care

The Philodendron verrucosum is a climber meaning that the growth habit is towards the sky and not along the surface.

The natural habitat of this plant is Central to South America in countries such as Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru.

Philodeondron verrucosum grows at an altitude between 165 to 6550 feet (50 – 2000m) above sea level and is therefore very diverse in its needs.

Many websites describe Philodendron verrucosum as an easy to grow houseplant. I do not fully agree as the humidity needs seem to be bigger than most other houseplants I encountered so far.

In addition, leaves are turning crisp and brown quite easily when your watering regime is not on point.

But do not worry, we have you covered with our in-depth Philodendron verrucosum care guide.

Philodendron Verrucosum Plant Care Guide

Soil

The right soil is so important and this is why I always discuss this topic first. Many problems arise because of the wrong potting soil and a lot of stress is caused once your plants show signs of overwatering.

The right potting mix is even more important when dealing with plants in the Aracaea family where many species are epiphytes.

Roots need aeration, meaning the possibility of direct airflow to the roots. This requirement can only be met if your potting mix is airy and drains well.

For this to happen you will need to have ingredients that are chunky and that will allow for air pockets in-between the potting medium to form.

The following aroid mix I would like to share with you is working well for my Philodendron verrucosum:

Potting Soil (30%)
Orchid Bark (30%)
Perlite (30%)
Charcoal (10%)

Keep soil pH values between 5.1 to 6.0.

Let’s move to the next section where we will look into the right light conditions for Philodendron verrucosum. Since light is responsible for plants to conduct photosynthesis, this is another aspect of plant care you do not want to get wrong.

Light

Bright indirect light or filtered light is best for these climbers. With bright indirect light, I mean light coming from a window very close by that is not touching the leaf blades directly.

These conditions can be best met in an east-facing window where the indoor plants get bright indirect light for a big part of the day and some direct sunlight in the morning.

Watering

Water thoroughly when watering to mimic tropical jungle conditions. It is best practice to keep the soil humid but never soggy.

Also, do not let the soil of your Philodendron verrucosum dry out completely as it is often suggested in plant care guides.

The dry soil will act as a shield due to the blanket effect and might prevent any humidity to get to the roots.

With the right substrate, you should be able to keep the roots of your plant healthy and water the plant plenty when you are watering.

Root rot is a common cause of improper soil conditions and an inadequate watering schedule. You can read my article about preventing root rot in case you want to know more about it.

Temperature

Philodendron verrucosum loves the temperature to be above 68°F (20°C). A temperature above 77°F (25°C) in combination with high humidity will ensure that your verrucosum is growing super fast if you have a verrucosum type that prefers warmer temperature.

They can also be cold growers and grow better in lower temperatures. You have to remember that the Philodendron verrucosum is found at altitudes ranging from 165 to 6550 feet (50-2000m) above the sea.

These are the conditions you would meet in Central and South America where the Philodendron grows in nature.

The Philodendron verrucosum can be grown outside in hardiness zones 9b-11 according to the United States Department of Agriculture’s hardiness zones. Make sure temperatures stay above 40 °F (4.5 °C).

Humidity

High humidity above 60% is advised to keep your Philodendron verrucosum in great shape and growing vigorously.

It is a subtropical to tropical plant after all that grows under humid conditions in the wild. I keep mine very humid above 90% in terrarium conditions and they thrive.

Fertilizer

Fertilize away from the base at least 3 times a year. The best fertilizer to use is slow-release fertilizer.

This sort of fertilizer is solid and either comes as little sticks or colorful small balls that you put into the soil.

If you do not fertilize your Philodendron verrucosum it will grow very slowly.

My guide ab out nutrients and fertilizer has you covered in case you are interested in knowing more about fertilizer best practices.

Propagation

Philodendron verrucosum is an easy plant to propagate in most cases. The most common way is to propagate from stem cuttings.

Read my step-by-step guide below on how to propagate Philodendron verrucosum.

Growth

These plants grow up to 3 feet (90cm) in height. The leaves can reach a massive size of up to 3 feet tall (90cm).

New leaves emerge from deciduous cataphylls. Deciduous means that the cataphylls will be shredded off.

Since Philodendron verrucosum is a climber it is best to provide a moss pole.

The moss pole will help the plant to gain height. Other effects of providing a pole are that the stem of the verrucosum will grow thicker and the leaf size will increase considerably.

Without the possibility to climb it will take much longer for the Philodendron verrucosum to reach maturity or it might even never reach this stage.

These plants grow better in winter months if you have a verrucosum that is a cold grower.

Potting

These plants love to grow extensive root systems so my suggestion is to no underpot this one.

Chose a pot size where the plant has sufficient space to grow a large root system.

You can use clay pots. A big advantage is that these will drain excess water from the soil. However, this also means that you have to water more frequently.

Read my article about the advantages of clay pots in case you are on the lookout for the perfect pot for your plant.

Repot every 1-2 years just before your Philodendron becomes pot bound.

A good choice if these plants are not grown in a terrarium is to provide a pebble tray underneath and fill it with water.

This will increase the humidity around the verrucosum plant.

Let’s not have a look at how you propagate this stunner.

Philodendron Verrucosum Propagation

As with most houseplants, there are several viable ways on how to propagate a Philodendron verrucosum.

I am going into more detail about how to do stem cuttings as this method is not only easy but also quite effective.

Stem cuttings

Stem cuttings are a common way to propagate Philodendron such as Philodendron Selloum, Philodendron Gloriosum, or Philodendron Birkin.

Step-by-Step Philodendron verrucosum propagation:

Chose a section of your plant that is viable for propagation
Make sure that the section you are choosing has at least one node
Prepare your pruning shears, scissors or knife ready by holding it under a flame for a few seconds and by using rubbing alcohol
Use the now disinfected blade(s) to make a clear cut
Put cinnamon on the wounds. This will help them to heal faster and to no get infected
Put the Philodendron verrucosum cutting in Sphagnum Moss. Viable alternatives are water, perlite or soil directly
Before you use the Spaghnum moss put it in water and press it hard in your fist at least 3 times for excess water to drain
Now the humidity of you moss is optimal
Put the cutting with the Sphagnum Moss in a jar or pot
Ensure the spot you choose provides warmth and humidity to your cutting as this will speed up the process

After 3 to 4 weeks you should see roots emerging. However, it can go much faster or much longer or be unsuccessful.

There are many variables that will affect your success rate. Apart from temperature and humidity, a big factor is choosing the right season to do cuttings and propagation attempts.

Spring and Summer are generally the best seasons to propagate houseplant or any plant for that matter.

Air Layering

A different method is to air layer your plant. This is the process of trying to get roots from your future cutting before you cut it.

You basically put Sphagnum moss around a node with air roots and cover it with plastic. After a couple of weeks, roots should start growing.

Once the root length is sufficient, you can conduct your cut and you will get a rooted cutting. The success with this method is higher as you get a cutting with roots.

However, the process is a bit more difficult to do as fixating the Sphagnum moss on the stem of your plant can be a little finicky to do for the beginner.

Seeds

Propagating from seeds is a great method to get multiple plants. The biggest challenge is to acquire any seeds. Aroid seeds are hard to get and some are quickly degenerating.

Buying seeds on the internet mostly is not a good idea as you could be sold anything but Philodendron verrucosum seeds.

The best way would be to own two plants so one can pollinate the other. For this to happen, both would either have to bloom at the same time or you would have to freeze the seeds of one plant and have it ready once the other blooms.

You may see by now why I am not going into further details here.

Apart from propagating this plant, which is the fun part, you may also have to deal with certain problems when things do not go well.

Let’s move on and put the spotlight on the most common problems with the Philodendron verrucosum.

Common Problems with Philodendron Verrucosum

Yellow Leaves

Yellow leaves if not seen on older leaves at the bottom of your plant where it can be natural is almost always a clear sign of overwatering.

Take it as a warning signal and make sure to decrease the frequency you are watering your Philodendron verrucosum.

If the soil is soggy for a long time you might also have to check the roots for symptoms of root rot.

Drooping Leaves

This can be a confusing one as drooping leaves is an indicator of two contradictory causes.

Drooping leaves in Philodendron plants can either be a cause of overwatering or a cause of underwatering.

So the most important step here is to find out which one it is. Stick one of your fingers into the soil. If it feels soggy and a lot of soil stays on your finger once you pull it out of the soil you might be overwatering.

The opposite is true for underwatering. Whilst underwatering can be corrected quickly by a good drench and a better-adjusted watering schedule based on your condition, overwatering needs several steps to be corrected.

If overwatering is the cause you may need to remove and exchange the soil completely. Chances are that root rot will start to emerge and that might also infest the soil.

Remove all the soil and disinfect the plant pot. I then advise using a better more airy potting soil mix with chunky bits where aeration of the roots is granted.

Root Rot

Root rot is a disease that can be caused by overwatering on one hand. It will cause rotting roots that die back. It will start to affect also health roots as this disease quickly spreads.

The cause is a lack of needed oxygen to the roots.

On the other hand, there also is a root rot fungus that can infect the roots of your Philodendron Verrucsoum and quickly spread to all of the roots of your plant.

Root rot is a serious disease that can kill your plant entirely and that needs to be identified and treated as quickly as possible.

Pest Infestation

Plant pests are the worst. They are often very nasty looking and hard to get rid of. The worst part is that they are mostly extremely small and you won’t even know exactly what infested your plant before it is almost too late.

Neem Oil– This oil is working wonder against pests of all sorts. It isn’t cheap and you can get it either pure and have to mix it with water or premixed and ready to spray on your plant. It leaves an interesting scent that some people hate and others might like.

But the most important part is that all the buggers hate it. Very effective but needs multiple applications to be effective.

Castile Soap – Use real soap and you will be astonished to see that it can successfully fight a bug infestation on your Philodendron verrucosum. Mix 1 tablespoon of Castile soap and use 1 quart of water.

Rubbing Alcohol – Dilute rubbing alcohol with water and use a cloth or qtip to clean your Philodendron Verrucosum. Use 1/2 cup of rubbing alcohol with 1 quart of water.

Any my latest discovery is predator bugs. These are basically bugs that eat other bugs you don’t want to have on your plants.

I am currently experimenting with lacewing larvae as they do not fly until they are adult and are very effective in eliminating multiple types of plant pests. Highly recommended.

With all the described methods please keep in mind that you need to do multiple applications and you will have to repeat the process after 2-3 weeks as plant pests might lay eggs above and also underground that will hatch during that period.

So once you fought the first batch successfully the seconds batch might already be hatching and ready for wave 2.

In addition to fighting plant pests, I summarized the most important tips to keep your Philodendron problem-free below.

Tips to keep Philodendron Verrucosum problem-free

In this section, I want to take the chance to highlight the most important tips and tricks to keep your Philodendron Verrucosum happy and growing well:

Keep the humidity as high as possible. Whenever the humidity was low I ran into problems with this plant. This does not come as a surprise since they are growing in cloud forests in nature.
As a hemiepiphyte, these plants need a very airy potting mix where air can reach the roots of your Philodendron Verrucosum
Since most of these plants are cold growers make sure temperatures are not too high but moderate.

What’s Wrong With My Monstera? Monstera Leaf Troubleshooting

The most common question we hear from monstera owners is “What’s wrong with my monstera? What does this leaf condition mean?!”

When your monstera is unhappy, the first place it will show up is in the leaves!

It can take a little practice to learn to “read” your monstera and know what it’s asking for, so here’s a quick guide to common problems you might run into with your monstera. You’ll be an expert in no time!

“What’s Wrong With My Monstera?” Monstera Leaf Troubleshooting

Why aren’t my monstera leaves splitting?

Monstera leaves may not split if they are too young or if the plant is not getting enough light.

When you think of monsters, you probably think of the characteristic leaf holes and perforations that set monsters apart from other plants. So it can be frustrating when your leaves won’t split!

There are usually two reasons for this.

First, your plant might be too young. Monstera deliciosa leaves typically won’t split until they’re 2-3 years old, so if you have a juvenile plant, be patient! Continue to take great care of your plant and you’ll be rewarded!

The other reason is that your plant might not be getting enough light. If your mature monstera isn’t producing perforations, move it to an area with bright, indirect sunlight, and consider supplementing with a grow light if your home doesn’t get adequate sunlight.

What does it mean if monstera leaves turn yellow?

Yellow monstera leaves can mean it’s either getting too much water or not enough nutrients.

Yellow leaves can also mean a few different things. If your leaves are turning yellow, there’s a good chance you’re over-watering your monstera. Make sure your plant gets plenty of indirect sunlight so the soil can dry efficiently and make sure the top few inches of soil are dry before you water.

Your monstera might also be deficient in nutrients, so now’s a good time to add liquid fertilizer to your care routine. We love Monstera Plant Food because it’s designed to be used with every watering, so you don’t have to remember a fertilizing schedule!

Why are there dark brown spots on my monstera leaves?

Dark brown spots on monstera leaves are a good indication of the plant getting too much water.

If you notice dark brown spots on your monstera leaves, this might indicate that your plant’s roots are rotting due to over-watering. (For more info, read 4 Signs Your Monstera Is Over-Watered here.)

Carefully remove your plant from the pot and using clean, sharp pruning shears, trim off any roots that look brown or mushy. Clear away as much of the old, wet soil from the root ball as you can and report into a clean pot (either a new one or the old one that you’ve cleaned out) with fresh, dry soil.

Make sure your monstera gets excellent light and go easier on the watering while the plant recovers. You can also prune off the damaged leaves.

To prevent root rot, make sure the soil feels dry before you water, and consider getting a moister meter like this one to test the moisture level of the root ball before you water.

What do light brown spots with crispy edges on monstera leaves mean?

Imagine how it looks like

Light brown spots and crispy edges on monstera leaves mean the monstera needs more water.

If the edges of your monstera turn a light brown color and get “crispy,” your plant might be thirsty! If the soil feels dry, give it a drink and consider watering a little more than usual. You can trim off the dead edges because they won’t heal.

Also, make sure that your monstera isn’t in direct sunlight because this can scorch the leaves! If you notice the sunlight directly hitting your leaves, move your monstera a little deeper into the room or a better spot altogether.

Why is my monstera drooping?

A drooping monstera can mean it needs more water or more light.

Drooping monstera leaves is another one of those signs that could mean a few different things. In this case, your monstera might be over-or under-watered.

To tell which it is, check the soil! If the soil feels dry, your plant probably needs a drink. If it feels wet, give your plant a chance to dry out before you water it again, and make sure it gets plenty of indirect sunlight so it can do that. If you notice your soil stays wet for a long time, consider repotting into a pot with better drainage and faster-draining soil.

If the soil seems okay and watering doesn’t seem to be the issue, your monstera might want more light. (For more info, read 4 Signs Your Monstera Needs More Light here.)

Watering is usually the trickiest part of caring for any plant, so read our guide on watering your monstera here.

It takes practice!

Learning to read your plant can take some practice, so be patient! This is a guide to what these signs generally mean, but you’re the best expert on what your plant needs. If you notice a problem, start by doing a few things:

Check the soil. If it’s very wet or very dry several days after you water, you might need to adjust the light, the amount of water you give it, or your drainage.

Check your light situation. The light should be bright and indirect. Your monstera should never cast a shadow.

When was the last time you fertilized? If you aren’t sure or if it was long ago, your plant might be undernourished. Especially if it’s spring or summer when your plant wants to grow. Read about the best fertilizer for your monstera here.

Check for insects. Read our article How to Get Insects OFF Your Monstera here, and consider our Houseplant Leaf Armor to protect your plant’s leaves from insects as well as bacteria and fungus. (It also helps your plant retain moisture and cleans and adds shine to its leaves.)

Make sure your plant isn’t bursting from its pot. This can lead to water issues and undernourishment.

If all those things are good, you’ll get a healthy plant!

Should You Prune a Cape Sundew?

Drosera capensis

f you’re interested in growing and taking care of carnivorous plants, then a cape sundew, also known as Drosera, is one of the best types of carnivorous plants with which to start. Sundews come in more than two hundred species and do need to be cared for differently than other types of carnivorous plants.

Should you prune a cape sundew? While you can prune a cape sundew, whether or not you choose to prune your sundew is entirely up to you. Some growers prefer a tidier appearance with their sundews and cut leaves often. Other growers perform a massive cut at the end of the season. Still, some other growers don’t cut the leaves at all. It all depends on how you want your sundews to look.

In this article, we’ll cover some helpful information about cape sundews, including information about pruning. We’ll discuss pruning, watering, and caring for your cape sundew so that you get the most out of your beautiful, carnivorous plant.

How to Prune Sundew Leaves

If you decide you want to prune your sundew leaves, the process is quite simple. If you choose to prune your sundew leaves, you can cut off dead leaves with a pair of scissors. However, you don’t need to remove the leaves from your cape sundew plant unless you know your plant is having problems with pests.

Should You Prune a Cape Sundew?

If you’re interested in growing and taking care of carnivorous plants, then a cape sundew, also known as Drosera, is one of the best types of carnivorous plants with which to start. Sundews come in more than two hundred species and do need to be cared for differently than other types of carnivorous plants.

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How to Prune Sundew Leaves

When your cape sundew plant is having issues with pests, you will want to trim off any dead leaves on the plant with scissors. You’ll also need to transplant the cape sundew into a new container to keep it healthy if you notice pests in the old container.

If you need to transplant your cape sundew into a new container, you’ll need to purchase a container that’s larger than what the plant had previously, primarily if your plant has grown. If you don’t want to buy a new container, you can always disinfect the old box and use it again. However, only re-use an old container if the container is in good condition, and your cape sundew plant hasn’t grown much.

You won’t need to trim leaves on your cape sundew often, if at all. You also won’t need to re-pot your plant very often unless you are dealing with pests. Typically, re-potting your cape sundew once every three to four years should do the trick. It’s also best to transplant your cape sundew when the plant is dormant so you won’t experience as much stress.

If you’re dealing with pests and it’s causing you to re-pot your plants often, you’ll need to look deeper into the problem. You don’t want to re-pot your cape sundew too often because of the stress it causes on the plant. So, make sure you are re-potting only when necessary whenever you experience pests or once every three to four years.

Why Prune the Leaves on Your Cape Sundew?

While it isn’t necessary to prune your cape sundew, some growers like to prune their cape sundews to keep them healthy during the winter season or to get rid of pests. Since the plant will go dormant when the weather gets colder, many growers want to cut off dead leaves to make things easier on the plant.https://49195330fca5b8a637a4d736d2451e1c.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

Also, depending on the climate you live in, you may need to cut the leaves on your cape sundew if you notice the leaves are getting frost on them. Most cape sundews can handle a light amount of frost if they aren’t in a heated area. However, if the leaves are getting too frosted over, it’s best to cut them off when the plant is dormant.

Some growers cut the whole lot off at ground level. By doing that, you can grow a busy, large, healthy-looking plant when you enter the next spring season. If you do cut the lot off at ground level, you’ll want to keep the plant’s soil damp and not too wet. It’s best to keep your cape sundews indoors during winter if you live in a cold climate.

How to Propagate Sundews: Leaf Cuttings

While you’re not required to prune your cape sundew unless you want to or you’re experiencing other issues, you will want to use leaf cuttings when you are trying to propagate your cape sundew plants. If you’re not sure what we mean by that, don’t worry; we’ll explain below.

If you’re trying to propagate sundews, the best way to do that is by using leaf cuttings. We’ve listed the steps below.

When you’re propagating, you’ll need to cut off a few leaves in the main stem area of the plant.
Then, put these leaves in mineral-free water for two to two and a half months.
Once that’s done, you’ll slowly reduce water levels in your leaf cuttings.
Once you’ve completed that process, you’ll want to get a carnivorous plant soil mix. Place that in a small three or four-inch container.
Then, put the cuttings in there. You should use one cutting per container.

If you’re trying to propagate cape sundews, you should also try to keep your plants indoors. The best places to keep cape sundews are in a terrarium, windowsill, or even any room that’s got a decent amount of natural light coming into it. If you feel you don’t have enough light coming into your house to help the plants, you can keep cape sundews outside if the weather permits.

You can also propagate your cape sundews by using their seeds. Typically, during the warmest months of the year, your cape sundew will grow flowers that are full of a bevy of seeds. If you want to get the seeds out of your flower, shake the bulb once it’s mature, and you’ll get access to the seeds.

Keep in mind that it is very tiring for carnivorous plants to grow and maintain flowers. So, if you’d like to help your plant out, you can cut off the growing flowers to preserve some of the plant’s energy. However, we only recommend doing that if you don’t plan on using any of the plant’s seeds.

Containers for Cape Sundews

When you are growing cape sundews, it’s best to use plastic containers that have holes on the bottom. Keep in mind that certain types of sundews grow better in humid conditions, so you’ll want to make sure you do that for your plants. If you are potting small sundews, you’ll want to use four-inch pots. If you are potting larger sundews, use containers that are seven to ten-inches large.

What to Feed Your Cape Sundew

Cape sundews are beautiful plants that are known to attract their prey. So, if you leave your plant outside often, it should be able to catch the prey it needs to eat. Leaving the plant outside means that it should be able to feed itself often.

However, if you keep your cape sundew indoors, then you’ll want to make sure you feed it various insects to keep it healthy and happy. You can purchase freeze-dried insects and moisten it to make it softer and more comfortable for your plant to digest. You only need to feed your cape sundew once per week.

Finalize

Now that you know more about pruning your cape sundew, you can decide if it’s something you’d like to do to your plant. While pruning can make your cape sundew appear better, it isn’t necessary to prune a cape sundew unless you are having pest problems. However, if you want to propagate more cape sundews, then you can use leaf trimmings or seeds to do so.

We covered how you can use leaf trimmings to propagate sundews, and we also included how you can germinate seeds to plant more seedlings. Now that you know how you can use the leaf trimmings off of your cape sundew, you can start growing more of these remarkable carnivorous plants for your home!

Peperomia deppeana

Classification

Group:	Angiosperms
Order:	Piperales
Family:	Piperaceae
Genus:	Peperomia
Species:	P. deppeana
Classified:	Schltdl. & Cham., 1830

Growing

Propagation:	From From division, seeds, cutting
Adult size:	1m vines
Lighting:	Medium
Watering:	Allow the soil to dry before watering
Fertilization:	Monthly during active growth
Soil:	Well drained
Humidity:	High humidity preferred, low humidity tolerated

Name

Peperomia is derived from the Greek ‘peperi’ meaning ‘pepper’ and ‘homoios’, which means ‘resembling’.

Characteristics

Foliage

P. deppeana has small light green leaves.

Flowers

Like all Peperomia, the P. deppeana inflorescence consists of a ‘rat tail’ like spike which contains the thousands of unnoticeable tiny flowers. Peperomia plants aren’t known for their flowers, as they are fairly unimpressive, resembling a bushy spike or tail.

Care

P. deppeana wants fairly bright light. Some direct morning or evening light would be ideal, otherwise bright indirect light would be perfect. Do not place P. deppeana in hot and intense direct light or the leaves will yellow and the plant will become stressed.

Use a well draining soil mix that retains a little moisture and water thoroughly, allowing excess to drain. Do not allow the plant to sit in water. Allow the pot to dry through at least an inch or two down into the substrate before watering again.

P. deppeana have shallow root systems which rot fairly easily if left soggy and wet for extended periods of time. Unlike many genus of plants that either don’t benefit from or are actively harmed by being misted, Peperomia have specialised cells within the leaves that allow some absorption of moisture and so enjoy and benefit from a light misting. It is better for the long term health of the plant to keep the soil slightly dry and mist the foliage if that fits into your care routine.

Common Problems

Floppy, dull leaves

If the leaves wilt it’s a sign there is an issue with watering. The fleshy, succulent leaves and stems of P. deppeana hold a lot of water and the root system rots away easily if kept in wet conditions for too long. Check the soil, is it dry? If so, water the plant, making sure to soak the soil thoroughly. If the soil is wet then it’s a sign that you’re watering too frequently, ensure you allow the soil to dry before watering again.

Repotting

P. deppeana has a shallow root system and so doesn’t get rootbound too easily. The biggest reason to repot your Peperomia is to refresh the soil, as over time it will break down and compact which will prevent oxygen uptake in the roots, causing rot. Repot if it’s been a year or two since you last repotted your plant and the soil is dense, hard and water doesn’t quickly drain through the container. Choose a pot that’s the same size or only slightly bigger than the plant was in before – too much substrate around the roots of the plant will cause rot.

Gently remove the Peperomia from its current pot and separate with care as much of the old potting mix from around the roots as possible. Transfer the plant into the new pot and then start adding the remainder of the potting mix around the plant. Firm the potting mix gently around the roots, but don’t compact it too much. Finally, water the plant thoroughly to ensure the soil settles.

Pests

P. deppeana can be affected by spider mites, thrips and mealybugs.

FAQs About Peperomia Hope Care

Peperomia ‘Hope’ plants are easy to care for. All you need is to grow the plants in bright indirect light, in well-draining soil, and water them occasionally. However, some issues can affect ‘Hope’ peperomia care.

Why are my Peperomia Hope leaves curling?

Peperomia ‘Hope’ leaf curl is usually due to plant bugs or a lack of nutrients. To restore healthy foliage to your peperomias, check for signs of mealybugs and get rid of them as necessary. If you suspect a nutrient deficiency, supplement watering with monthly feeding using a balanced houseplant fertilizer.

My Peperomia Hope leaves are falling off, what should I do?

Overwatering is the likely reason leaves fall off peperomia ‘Hope’ plants. To prevent leaves from dropping off, water the plant only when the top portion of potting soil is dry. Then, thoroughly soak the soil to hydrate the roots.

Calathea Rufibarba Care Guide (Water; Propagation Tips)

Introduction

Calathea rufibarba is a flowering plant in the Marantaceae family native to Brazil. The plant’s common name is due to its fuzzy, fur-like underleaf texture, which is unusual in its genus.

Higher classification: Calatheas

Scientific name: Calathea rufibarba

Order: Zingiberales

Rank: Species

Family: Marantaceae

Calathea Rufibarba Plant Care & Watering Guide

Watering your Rufibarba Plant

Calatheas like to be soggy consistently and, in contrast to philodendrons, detest drying out in the middle of waterings. With this being said, quite possibly the most well-known reasons for plant passing is root decay as it’s important that the plant likes to have its feet soggy, yet not sitting in water.

One of the most concerning issues plant sweethearts face when really focusing on their calathea plants is cooking leaf edges. This is especially regular in cultivars, for example, the Calathea Orbifolia, however considerably less normal in the Calathea Rufibarba.

If earthy colored tips happen, it probably implies that your plant is getting some unacceptable sort of minerals in the water it is being given. To battle this, I regularly permit water to sit in a container for a few days prior to utilizing it to water my plants. On the other hand, you could take a stab at utilizing rainwater.

Another basic justification earthy colored tips is absence of stickiness. This can be tackled by keeping your calathea plant in a washroom or kitchen (given that they actually have sufficient light) or gathering a portion of your calathea plants together in a course of action.

Best soil conditions for Rufibarba Calathea

In the same way as other tropical indoor houseplants, Calatheas do well in a well-depleting soil blend, which can be ordinarily bought at your neighborhood garden focus selling indoor plants. Essentially, there is no particular formula you need to follow thus you can stir up your own preparing blend on the off chance that you so like. Normally the plant will require repotting into a bigger compartment consistently or two, contingent upon development conditions and so forth.

Best light conditions for Calathea Rufibarba

Despite the fact that numerous individuals may say that Calatheas are the ideal low-light plants, this is just not the situation. While the facts demonstrate that calatheas can endure lower lighting conditions than other tropical houseplants, they positively need brilliant circuitous lighting to flourish.

Calathea Rufibarba Propagation

Like other calathea game plans, the Calathea Rufibarba heinously can’t be set up in water through stem or leaf cuttings. Considering everything, spread of the plant ought to be done through root division during repotting (which ought to commonly be finished during the start of the making season; for example in spring or early summer).

When you’re repotting your calathea plant, fundamentally shake off the abundance soil and opening the plant at the roots and stems. Tolerating that you’re repotting the Calathea considering the way that it’s rootbound, try to repot the two bits of the plant in pots which is equivalent in size to the one that the calathea just rose up out of. Plainly, expecting you have a more noteworthy plant, you can even opening your plant into three, four, or five, plants.

Calathea Rufibarba Pests

Calatheas are especially vulnerable to scale and arachnid parasites. Arachnid bugs will in general seem when the plant is pushed, for example, from under-watering and not accepting sufficient dampness. Another normal reason for plant pressure is the point at which the plant is root bound.

This is the point at which the pot is excessively little and, now, the plant ought to either be repotted in a bigger compartment or separated into more modest plants prior to repotting. Creepy crawly parasites can be dealt with utilizing an insecticidal cleanser. Scale can be treated with neem oil.

Begonia Prismatocarpa Care Guide

Begonia prismatocarpa is a very special miniature begonia that is native to western portions of Africa. It has bright lime green leaves and tiny yellow flowers and is a profuse bloomer and once established.

Begonias are one of the largest flowering plant genera that have more than 1,800 species. The bright, colorful foliage, as well as the blooms, are the main reasons for the popularity of Begonias. Today’s plant is another must-have for flower lovers.

Begonia Prismatocarpa needs a combination of well-draining and moisture-holding potting soil for good growth. This plant has moderate watering requirements that make it a no-fuss plant. However, it likes warm temperatures and high humidity.

Begonia Prismatocarpa was discovered by western explorers, but it is native to western regions of Africa that include the Ivory Coast, Cameroon, and the equatorial island of Bioko. It is a blooming miniature Begonia that has attractive leaves and red stems. Another point worth mentioning is that it’s a low maintenance plant that needs minimum attention and care.

This Begonia plant is named Prismatocarpa because of its prism-shaped berries. It belongs to the Begoniaceae plant family. It is an exceptional ornamental plant because it does not dry or wither with the changing seasons. It can instantly add a tropical touch to any indoor space with a pop of color.

You can grow this Begonia species both epiphytically or terrestrially. Do you want to learn more about this tiny Begonia with ever-blooming yellow flowers? Keep reading, as this article explains all the necessary plant care.

Basic of Begonia Prismatocarpa Care

Soil

This plant needs a peat-based mixture with a soil pH ranging from 5 to 7. I prepare the potting mixture with the aim of creating a well-draining mix that stays moist. In addition to this, the soil should be fertile and humus-rich. Do not let water accumulate near the plant roots as this can rot the rhizome.

Water

Begonia Prismatocarpa is not fussy in terms of watering as it has medium watering requirements. But you have to water it properly with allowing it to dry out before the next water session. I recommend lukewarm water for houseplants because that protects them from temperature shocks.

Keep the soil moderately moist by frequently watering in growing seasons, especially on dry and hot days. But ensure that potting soil should never be soggy or too wet.

In summer, I water my Begonia Prismatocarpa about three to four times a week. Whereas once or twice a week is enough in winter, right after the topsoil gets dry.

The main rule to water this Begonia is to not allow the soil to dry out entirely. Using your fingers, check the moisture in the soil, and if it’s dry to your first knuckle, it’s time to water your Begonia. Do not overwater at all as this will cause the foliage to shed and turn yellow.

This plant will not do well if it dries out quickly or stays wet for too long. Allow proper drainage by keeping it in pots with at least 1 drainage hole so that the excess water is never standing at the base.

You’ll be tempted to mist your Begonia to raise the humidity but remember that this species generally does not like water staying at leaves. Therefore, avoid keeping the foliage wet for long durations.

Light

This plant is great because it can tolerate a variety of lighting conditions, from bright sun to artificial grow lights. In fact, mine are doing really well under fluorescent lights. The artificial lights should be placed at the height of 8-16 inches.

I place my leafy Begonias outside in summer; this allows for better and intense leaf color. Sunlight exposure helps them grow better by energizing their health.

This species is more prone to sunburns compared to others. Therefore for outdoor planting, use shade clothes to diffuse the sun rays. You can also keep in a shady spot under the trees.

Generally, you should keep this Begonia plant in the filtered light of medium to low intensity. Be vary that excessively bright or direct sunlight is not favorable for this delicate miniature.

My Begonia Prismatocarpa started developing brown leaf edges and yellowing leaves when it was placed in an over-lit window in the living room. But transferring it to a shadier spot solved the problem for me. The pale leaves started regaining their lush green color within a few days.

Temperature

This is a room temperature plant that grows well with average household temperatures. But when grown in terrariums, it likes high humidity and temperatures. The optimum daytime temperature range is 50 – 86 degrees Fahrenheit (10-30 degrees Celsius). Whereas the nighttime range is 50 – 65 degrees Fahrenheit (10-18 degrees Celsius).

This is a warmth-loving plant; however, ensure that the maximum temperature is not higher than 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

This miniature plant is neither winter nor frost hardy; it cannot tolerate temperatures lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). Therefore, make sure you provide them some warmth on the colder days. You can use heat mats or place them in a controlled temperature environment.

If the minimum temperature drops below this in your area, bring the outdoor planters inside. Frost damage can even kill your Begonia if left outdoors throughout the season. Extreme temperature fluctuations will slow down your plant’s growth.

Humidity

Proper humidity is one of the top priorities for this species. Begonia Prismatocarpa enjoys high humidity of around 80% in the day; at night, it will appreciate further high humidity levels. The minimum indoor humidity level in your house should be 60% for the optimum growth of this plant.

Because of the high humidity requirements, this plant does well in terrariums instead of an average indoor environment.

If you are situated in a dry climate, you have to take extra care for humidity loving houseplants. But do not worry. Several methods are available to improve humidity:

Mist the plant leaves frequently on dry days. As the water evaporates, a humid greenhouse environment is created for your plant.
Group several houseplants together to collectively increase the humidity for them.
Use a tray or saucer with pebbles, filler it with water so that the bottom of the soil does not remain in the water.
Get a humidifier if you have several houseplants that need high humidity levels.

If you are still wondering which method is most convenient, in my opinion, using a humidifier is the most convenient and effective method to improve indoor air moisture. The only drawback is that it might be expensive if you are on a budget. Don’t be discouraged; you can still ensure adequate humidity for your plant by simply misting the foliage.

Fertilizer

This Begonia requires little fertilizer or plant food. I have been using a regular houseplant fertilizer once a month for my Begonia, and it seems to enjoy this dosage. Make sure you use the fertilizer in low quantity; excessive fertilization can cause toxicity.

Always check and read about the quality of the fertilizer you are about to use. Low-quality fertilizer can cause salt buildups that are equally dangerous for the health of your plant.

If you are unsure about what to use, select any fertilizer that’s specifically made for flowering Begonias. Dilute it to half-strength of the manufacturer’s rate. This will reduce the risk of overfertilization.

Repotting

If you don’t maintain the plant pruning requirement, it will soon need repotting. I mostly repot my Begonias in the initial years because once the plant matures, the size will not increase rapidly. Mature plants can be easily left in their pot for a few years.

But it’s worth mentioning that this species will need an annual refreshing of soil. I would suggest doing this in the growing season; gently remove your plant from the soil. Inspect the roots for any rots or diseases. Now fill the pot with a fresh batch of a suitable mixture and place you plant in this mixture.

With time the potting mix will deplete and lose its oxygen holding capacity. Refreshing the potting soil protects your plant from several diseases, fungus as well as removes the salt buildups. Repotting is an essential part of Begonia’s growing culture, and most growers encourage yearly repotting.

Pruning

Begonia Prismatocarpa will spread in all directions to create a thick carpet of leaves on the soil surface, so pruning will be necessary to keep the plant under control. Start the trimming by pruning the dead stalks to revive your plant and save its energy.

Pruning is also great if you want a shrubby look for this miniature plant. Pinch the tips as well as prune the stems in growing seasons to get a fluffier plant. Regular pruning is necessary to maintain this fast-growing Begonia.

Propagation

This plant’s low maintenance nature will force you to have more Begonias. Propagation is one of the ways to get a new plant with minimum effort and cost.

You can use any of the methods discussed for the propagation of Begonia Prismatocarpa. All you need is a healthy Begonia Prismatocarpa plant, a suitable potting mix, a small pot, pruning shears, and a pair of gloves.

Sterilize your tools before and after the propagation to prevent the spread of any fungus or disease.

Stem Cuttings

Spring or summer is the ideal season for this method, and it’s the easiest way to propagate a Begonia. Before you take the cuttings, prepare a pot with a well-draining and moist mixture. You can use the guidelines discussed in the soil section. The pot should also have drainage holes.
Take a clean, shape knife(or pruning shears) and make a cut below the node. Choose a stem that’s healthy and at least 5 to 7 inches long.
The health of the stem cutting will greatly impact the propagation. Unhealthy or weak stems might never root, and you end up losing a stem from your plant.
Remove the leaves at the lower end but leave a few of them at the top. Place the stem cutting about 3 to 4 inches deep in the soil and firm the soil using your fingers. Don’t press the soil very hard; gentle compacting it is enough.
Make sure the leaves are above the soil and not touching the surface as this might result in rotted leaves.
Place the container/pot in a warm location with filtered rays. You should also water frequently to make sure the soil is moist. Avoid over-watered or soggy soil.
The plant will root in 3 to 4 weeks, but this time period will vary depending on the environmental conditions. My cutting started rooting after the third week, and the shoot development started in the fourth week.
You can root the cutting in water also by simply placing it jar of water instead of soil. The cutting will start rooting within weeks once you feel the roots are well-established, transfer the stem cutting to a soil mixture. You cutting will soon grow into a young plant; you can follow the care steps discussed in the previous sections.
If you want, you can continue growing the plant in water as well. But I would suggest transferring to soil because that will ensure better conditions for the young plant.

Blooms

This Begonia has beautiful yellow colored blooms with a tint of orange discoloration and strips. With the right care and environment, the plant blooms all year for you. The green leaves combined with bright yellow blooms and reddish stems make this plant look truly unique.

This plant can not only be kept indoors for air purification, but it can also add a pop of color with its bright yellow flowers.

Growth

This is an evergreen foliage plant with slow growth that makes it well suited for terrariums. This Begonia is the smallest species in the large Begonia family that has a maximum mature height of 6 inches. The spread of this plant is more compared to its height; the width is usually between 5 to 7 inches.

Like many other tropical plants, this one also has an epiphytical growth habit. The leaves are approximately 1 inch in size and grow along the branches.

This Begonia also has a variegated version known as Begonia Prismatocarpa. All features are similar to the standard version except the white borders on the leave edges.

Common Problems with Begonia Prismatocarpa

This beautiful Begonia is prone to a few diseases and pests that make it a slightly difficult plant to grow. But all the hard work is worth it, and do not worry; we have discussed the possible issues in detail to help you keep your Begonia healthy.

Botrytis Blight

This is caused by Botrytis Cinera. The main indication for this is several holes on the leaves. If left untreated, this blight can kill your Begonia Prismatocarpa. Keep a regular check of your plant so that you can identify and treat any issues at the earliest.

Isolate your plant and remove the infected leaves. Dispose of these leaves and disinfect all your gardening equipment. You can also use any antibiotic spray to control the spread of the disease.

Pests

Several pests like caterpillar, snails, earwigs feed on the foliage of the Begonia. As a result, your plant develops several leaf holes. If you notice that your plant has holes at random leaves, inspect it for any pest infestations.

The first step is to isolate your plant from other houseplants to reduce the spread. Now use a good quality insecticidal spray/soap to get rid of these nasty pests. You can repeat the application every 14 days.

This plant is also prone to other pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites.

Tips for Growing Begonia Prismatocarpa

Water the Begonia Prismatocarpa from above, rotate your plant to ensure even distribution of water.
Allow the plant to dry for 2-3 hours after watering as this plant does not like water sitting on the soil or foliage.

Alocasia Sarian Care – Things You are Miss

Alocasia Sarian is a sizable houseplant great for any indoor space. This stunning centerpiece has an airy stem and leaf structure. It has a tropical look with forest, dark green leaves, and the tiger-striped stems.

Native to the rainforests of South Asia, this plant will thrive in warm, humid environments. It needs regular water in summer and spring, whereas little water works great in winter. It also needs bright sunlight with partial shade for optimum growth.

The Alocasia belongs to the Arum plant family with more than 70 varieties that are native to the tropical or subtropical regions of Asia and Australia. These plants create a bold, tropical atmosphere in any landscape or indoor garden.

This plant forms the leaves as part of the stems rather than at the end of the stems. It is a hybrid of two Alocasias, Alocasia Zebrina and Alocasia Micholitziana. It is named after an agriculture journalist Zac B. Sarian from the Philippines.

Because of the huge, pointy leaves, this plant is also known as the Elephant Ears.

Interestingly this plant is also called African Mask due to its resemblance to the mask in African culture.

When grown in warm climates throughout the year, this plant can grow up to 12 ft high. Whereas in colder climates, it mostly grows 5 to 6 ft tall.

The natural rainforest environment can be difficult to imitate, but this article will help you create a perfect environment for your Alocasia Sarian.

Alocasia Sarian Plant Care

Soil

For optimum growth, this plant needs light, airy, and well-draining soil. Never plant it in a heavy soil mixture as it is a rhizomatous plant. Don’t use rocky or sandy soils either.

Any organically rich soil that has great moisture retention is perfect for the Alocasia Sarian. The USDA hardiness zones for the Alocasia are 9 to 11 according to the Missouri Botanical Garden.

This plant should be planted outdoors only if the night temperature does not go below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15°C).

Further details about temperature will be discussed later on in this article.

Watering

Check the soil regularly to make sure it’s moist at all times. During spring and summer, the plant grows actively, so it needs extra water to grow all the new leaves.

I would suggest watering in smaller amounts at regular intervals. This will maintain the desired moisture content without letting the soil get soggy.

The roots cannot tolerate wet feet or soggy soil, but don’t let the plant dry out completely.

This species is not drought-tolerant; therefore, lack of water can damage the beautiful leaves as they will curl and go crispy. Insufficient watering may even kill your Alocasia.

A simple watering schedule for this plant includes watering it twice a week in summer and once a week in winter.

I would suggest relying on the actual dampness of soil instead of a fixed schedule. Always press a few inches of topsoil with your fingers before you water and only water if dry.

This plant will go dormant in winter means it spends less energy, so reduce the watering.

Light

The most attractive part of this plant is the leaves, but the plant needs bright indirect sunlight to maintain its foliage color.

This plant prefers a balance between full sun and partial shade. Remember that this plant can burn easily in direct sun as Alocasias cannot withstand direct light at all.

Temperature

This Alocasia, similar to other varieties, is sensitive to cold. It will appreciate warm and humid indoor conditions. Temperatures ranging between 65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 22 degrees Celsius) are ideal for maximum, healthy growth.

This plant is slightly fussy about temperature; lower temperatures can reduce the plant growth drastically.

Whenever my Alocasia had slow growth, shifting it to a warmer spot has fixed the problem for me. You should position your plant away from draughty windows, doors as well as air conditioners.

This frost-sensitive plant cannot survive outdoors in winter; freezing temperatures will severely damage the foliage.

Move your outdoor containers indoors in autumn when the temperature starts dropping below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15°C).

Humidity

Alocasia plants struggle at low humidity levels. At least 60 % of indoor humidity is necessary.

In a perfect world, 70% or higher would be great. Place it in a humid location like in a bathroom or kitchen. The Alocasia should not be located near radiators as they cause the soil to dry out.

Grouping plants together can also create the desired humidity. You can run a humidifier as an extra step if you want to rely on artificial methods for better humidity.

Fertilizer

Plant food helps promote new growth on the Alocasia Sarian. In spring and summer, you can feed it with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer.

If you notice more growth on the plant, you might want to increase the fertilization. When grown in warm, bright locations, the plant will have more growth; hence more nutrients are needed.

If you want a fertilizing routine that needs minimum effort, apply a slow-release fertilizer to the Alocasia plant periodically. This will ensure the soil has all the necessary nutrients throughout the growing season.

Slow-release fertilizer reduces the risk of over-fertilization because the nutrients are released in the soil slowly.

You should discontinue fertilization in late autumn and resume in the early spring months.

Repotting

You can refresh the plant-soil annually. But repotting is only necessary when the plant outgrows the pot, or there is severe damage to the rhizomes.

Do not immediately repot a newly bought plant. Let the plant acclimatize to its new environment. Immediate repotting may shock the plant.

Pruning

Pruning helps you in managing your houseplants, especially the fast-growing species like Alocasia Sarian. Within six months, this plant will develop leaves growing in all different directions hence invading the space for the neighboring plants.

You can prune a few leaves or stems and utilize them for propagation. The other time this plant needs pruning is when it is infected, or the foliage is decaying. You should trim the yellow or damaged leaves to give a fresh look to your Alocasia.

Propagation

Propagation is a great tool to multiply your plants without spending anything. Most Alocasia species are propagated via clump or rhizome division. Propagation is an excellent option for crowded plants if you don’t want to repot them.

This tuberous plant develops from a tuber or rhizome. It will additionally produce small offsets that are exact copies of the parent plant. These offsets grow from the roots at the base of the plant. They can be easily removed and planted in separate pots.

For rhizome division, carefully remove the Alocasia Sarian from its pot and brush away the excess soil around the roots. If the soil has huge clumps, do not press hard to free the roots, this will damage the roots. You can soften the clumps by spraying it with water.

The root system might look complicated because everything is interconnected, but you can easily separate the rhizomes for propagation.

Use a disinfected pair of scissors or knife to untangle the roots. These small clumps/offsets often have their own root system, so you will not have to wait for root development.

Water Propagation

Water propagation is mostly preferred for stem cuttings, but this method is equally successful for rhizomes.
Find a small container or jar that can host the Alocasia rhizome during the process. I use glass containers to enjoy the growth of the plant.
Fill the container with water and let it sit for about 24 hours. This will help you remove impurities and chlorine from the water.
Now submerge the rhizome in water and place it in a spot with bright, filtered sunlight.
Avoiding direct sunlight exposure is highly important because it encourages algae growth.
You can replace or add more water whenever you feel the water has evaporated or it’s getting dirty.
You can mix a small quantity of liquid houseplant fertilizers in the water to encourage more growth.
Once you notice new growth, shift it to the soil.

Soil Propagation

The most commonly used rooting medium for Alocasia propagation is soil. Since the plant already has tiny roots, you can directly pot it in a new container with fresh soil.

You can use regular nursery pots with drainage holes, fill them with an appropriate potting mixture.
Make sure the potting mixture holds moisture well because this tropical species needs moisture to thrive. Regular potting soil with coco coir and perlite is an excellent medium for the newly propagated plant.
Plant the rhizome in the mixture by making a small hole in the center. Place the rhizome in this hole and pour the remaining soil on it.
Give the newly planted Alocasia a light drink to moisturize the soil and leave it in a bright location for further growth.
Despite the existing roots, the plant may suffer from transplant shock, and it can take a few weeks for new growth.
If the leaves start popping, congratulations, you have successfully propagated the Alocasia Sarian.

Blooms

With proper care, this plant will grow tiny spathe flowers throughout the year, but these are secondary to the decorative foliage.

The Sarian plant has unscented flowers that resemble the Calla lily. It flowers like a typical aroid with a spike-like spadix that is surrounded by a leaf-like spathe.

The flowers are white in color, but these are not showy or attractive.

Growth

This plant has a unique growing pattern similar to the domino effect. Each new leaf on the plant is split out of the stem of the last leaf.

This will create beautiful lines on the leaves that this plant is famous for. The upper side of the Sarian leaves have thick lime green veins adding to the beauty of this plant.

This tropical perennial plant, with its unique, glossy, heart-shaped leaves, has prominent white veins passing through the leaf. The thin, cylindrical stems support the large leaves that point upwards.

Leaves on the young Sarian plant are arrow-shaped with pointy and triangular tips. As the plant matures, each leaf develops distinctive marking, veining, and coloration.

The veining and coloration may increase or decrease depending on the environmental conditions.

As an indoor plant, it will get 3 to 4 ft in height, whereas the leaves can get 1 ft long in size. Outdoors, under optimum conditions, the Sarian plant will get 5 to 10 ft in height while the leaves can also get quite big.

Generally, the size will vary greatly depending on the plant’s location and environment.

Overall this is a fast-growing plant that can take over any space within few months. It grows relatively faster in summer.

Winterizing Alocasia

This Alocasia is a frost-tender perennial that needs to be winterized in cold months. You can do the following:

Using a clean knife or pair of clippers, remove the dead foliage from the plant when first frost hits.
In the fall, you can spread 2 to 4 inches layer of mulch at the base of the pot to regulate the soil temperature. You can remove this mulch as spring starts to allow for new growth.
For tuberous Alocasia, you have to cut the stems at 2 to 3 inches above the soil line.
Remove the plant from the soil and brush away the excess soil. Let them dry in the open air for a day or two. Store the tuber roots in a peat moss or vermiculite mixture and keep them in a warm, dry location.
Direct sunlight should not hit the roots, so a basement is an ideal location. Check the tubers every few weeks for any fungal damage or disease.
You can replant these back in spring. You can either plant or place the tubers outside once the threat of frost and freezing temperatures has passed.
I would recommend hardening the Alocasia plant one week prior to permanently moving it outdoors.

Common Problems

Brown Spots on Leaves

There could be many reasons for brown spots; the top three reasons are extremely cold temperatures, direct sunlight exposure, or low humidity. Prune and remove leaves with brown spots but examine the three reasons to prevent the brown spots on other leaves.

Rhizome Rot

This plant is highly vulnerable to rotting. It can even rot if the environment is not cozy or warm enough. You can use bottom heat mats to provide additional warmth to the plant.

Always avoid excessive watering for Alocasia, as this will also lead to rhizome rot.

Yellow Leaves

When Alocasia Sarian is overwatered, it will develop yellow leaves that will eventually drop as a survival strategy. Underwatered plants also drop their leaves, so I would recommend understanding both scenarios for your plant.

The best solution is to change your plant’s watering schedule and ensure good air circulation. Once you find a balance between under and overwatering, your plant will have green leaves again.

Spider Mites

This pest is the top issue for the Alocasia plants. If you find any grey discoloration on Alocasia leaves, inspect the plant for spider mites. Small white webbings on leaves and stalk are another indication for the presence of spider mites.

Neem or herbal oil is effective for the removal of this nasty pest. You can also use chemical pesticides, but strong doses or excessive application is poisonous for your plant.

Tips for Growing

This plant needs clean leaves for photosynthesis. It is best to clean it regularly with a damp cloth or spray the leaves with water to remove the dust.
Rotate your plant every now and then to ensure equal distribution of light, water, and fertilizer.
Plant the Alocasia Sarian in an outdoor location where it is protected from strong winds.
For indoor planting, if you choose to place it in a window, make sure it is a frost-free window. The cooler the window, the slower the Alocasia will grow.

Alocasia Ivory Coast Care: The Definitive Way

The massive size and remarkable shape of the leaves have led the Alocasia Ivory Coast plant to be more famously known as the Elephant Ear plant.

The excellent contrast between the deep green leaves and their silver-green veins front the plant as one of the most loved house plants in the world.

Upon reaching maturity, the stems turn a light pink color and go perfectly with the arrow-shaped leaves.

If placed indoors, the herbaceous plant will add a lot of color and an air of drama to the room. Outdoors, the Alocasia Ivory Coast hybrid, is one of the most popular plants people like to add to their tropical theme gardens.

Know that the leaves of the Ivory Coast are more undulated as compared to the other wavy-leafed Alocasia varieties. Just like the leaves of the Arrowhead (Syngonium Podophyllum), only bigger and more colorful.

Alocasia Ivory Coast Care Instructions

The Alocasia Ivory Coast likes bright light from a window, but not too much direct sunlight. If you manage to keep it happy with moist soil that contains compost, peat, and perlite, this Alocasia will return the favor with more giant leaves! The plant likes 60-70% humidity with temperatures on the warmer side, e.g., 65-85 °F (18-30°C).

Alocasia Ivory Coast stands out when it comes to appearance. However, all Alocasias are almost the same when it comes to plant care.

When plants are loved, they love you back. But some express their gratitude louder and more visibly than others. The Alocasia Ivory Coast is one such plant.

Soil

As mentioned earlier, Alocasias thrive when there are adequate moisture levels present consistently. The one-sentence description for the right soil is, ‘Keep it moist, but not drowning.’

To make sure your Alocasia Ivory Coast loves the soil it’s planted in, get a mix that is rich in nutrients and retains moisture well. If you are confused between the two contradictory terms, “well-draining” and “moisture-retaining,” don’t worry.

You’re not the only one.

When we talk about a well-draining soil mix, we refer to soil that lets the roots breathe. The soil should have granules of varying sizes so that uniformly sized particles don’t stick together and compact the soil.

With well-draining soil, the water should not remain stagnant in the pot when you give your Alocasia a good watering.

On the other hand, a water-retaining mix refers to a soil mix with porous material as a portion of the mix.

The porous material soaks up water and lets the excess water flow through. After the extra water has drained from the soil, the porous material can then slowly release the absorbed water as required by the roots.

The normal potting mix for flowers, known as composted soil, is a fine mix for Alocasias. This mix is commercially available and is a good option if you don’t want to prepare the mix yourself.

If you’re more DIY-oriented, then what better than your home-prepared potting mix for your Alocasia Ivory Coast. The ideal potting mix for Alocasia Ivory Coast is

1/3 part peat moss
1/3 part perlite
1/3 compost

All three ingredients will offer quite a bit of nutrient for the plant.

The perlite will keep the soil well-draining, aerated, and un-compacted. The peat moss and compost will do the moisture-retaining as well as keep the roots healthy and well-fed.

Watering

As mentioned earlier, your Alocasia Ivory Coast will thrive when the soil is kept consistently moist. You will need to carefully observe the time after which the soil seems to get dry and then water the plant.

Because everyone’s climate is a bit different, the temperature and humidity levels will determine the time after which you water your plant.

The watering routine you follow in the colder months would not be the same as in the summers. Like most tropical herbaceous plants, the Alocasia Ivory Coast will go dormant in the winters and even start to die back.

This is when you need to hold back on the watering.

The rule for keeping the soil moist stays in place. You just need to adjust for the lower temperatures, reduced transpiration, and evaporation rates.

Light

Alocasia Ivory Coast thrives in bright, indirect natural sunlight. Being a tropical herbaceous, the natural habitat of Alocasias is the forest floor, where they receive only flecks of direct sunlight but are surrounded by bright filtered light.

Exposure to direct sunlight for more than a few hours will damage the leaves.

Indoors, your Alocasia Ivory Coast will do perfectly next to a window. But you need to be more careful when placing the plant outdoors.

Putting the plant on roofs or in front of walls that receive direct sunlight is out of the question. The best place would be under a tree that has a mature canopy or against a wall that helps shade the plant for most of the day.

Early morning and late afternoon sun rays wouldn’t do any harm. They’re just what Alocasias love.

Temperature

Alocasias are tropicals, and they don’t like the cold. Your plant will have a hard time surviving if it is exposed to temperatures below 60°F or 16°C. 65-85 °F (18-30°C) is the ideal temperature range.

Summers are perfect. In winters, you need to protect the plant. The plant will grow almost all year round in USDA zones 9-11 and can be kept outdoors.

But for colder areas, the plant will go dormant in the winters, and you need to bring it inside.

Bringing your Alocasia Ivory Coast indoors is not enough. Put it in a place that is kept warm all day round, probably your living room. Don’t place it too close to the window.

Humidity

The right humidity levels are one of the more complicated requirements of Alocasia Ivory Coast.

It would be best if you place the plant away from any ACs, heaters, and drafty places in your home. If you feel like the humidity might be a little too low (below 60%) for the big-leafed beauty, there’s a range of solutions for you.

Misting: Misting the leaves once a week is an excellent practice. Not only does misting mimic the right humidity and maintain the glossy appearance of your Alocasia’s foliage, but it also helps clean out any dust that accumulates on the leaves.

The fairly large leaf size means a lot of dust can settle onto the leaves and make the plant look neglected for ages. Misting and lightly wiping the leaves with a cloth or piece of foam would do the trick.

Filling the saucer with pebbles and water: Filling the planter tray with pebbles or smaller rocks and adding a glass of water will do the same job as regular misting. This will create an artificial high-humidity area around the plant—sort of like a protection shield.
A humidifier: If you feel the humidity levels are too low and can feel the lack of moisture in the air yourself, a humidifier can do good service to you and your Alocasia Ivory Coast.

Fertilizer

With the monster leaf size, Alocasias also have a monster appetite. The bigger your plant is, the more nutrients it will need to thrive and maintain a healthy look.

So to feed your plant, use a liquid houseplant fertilizer, only from early spring to late summer. As soon as summer ends, don’t add any fertilizer.

For Alocasia Ivory Coast, liquid fertilizers do better than granular fertilizer or organic compost.

Repotting

To report an exotic beauty as beautiful as the Alocasia Ivory Coast, you must choose a planter that suits it well. If you’re buying a pot, bear in mind that the plant will grow both upwards and horizontally, and to balance, the roots will have to grow respectively.

First things first, make sure a drainage hole is present. I know the drainage hole precaution is the most repetitive and boring thing in the world, but there’s always a novice plant parent that is completely unaware of this critical piece of knowledge.

Next up, get a saucer or tray for the pot. Most pots don’t come with a saucer, although it’s an essential thing for houseplants.

This is because if there’s no tray to hold that extra water that flows from the bottom of the pot, people tend to water their plants less so that no water seeps out and messes up the floor.

When placing your Alocasia in its pot, make sure you ample soil at the bottom of the pot. Don’t just put the plant into an empty planter and dump all the soil over it.

Alocasia roots need to grow downwards to settle into their new home and grow.

Carefully plan the planting by first adding soil into the pot. When the soil is up to the right height, shake the pot so that air pockets are filled, and then add some more soil.

Finally, place the Alocasia so that the beginning of the root system, where the stems turn brown, is leveled with the soil surface.

Place the Alocasia pot in its tray and make sure you give it a good watering.

Pruning

When your Alocasia Ivory Coast is growing rampantly, and it’s only the middle of the growing season, you should be expecting a lot of growth until late autumn.

While it is a wonderful thing, a vigorous growing season can sometimes lead your Alocasia to take up a lot more space.

With a very heavy heart, you might need to prune back the size of your Alocasia to keep it manageable. But that doesn’t mean you’ll have to throw those beautiful leaves away.

If you know how to propagate your Alocasia Ivory Coast, pruning only means new baby plants.

Herbaceous plants do not react in the same way to pruning as hardwood plants do. You should not expect vigorous foliage growth if you prune back your Alocasia hard. The only time you will need to prune the plant is to remove old, yellowing leaves.

To prune Alocasia Ivory Coast, cut the stem from the base of the plant, where it is originating from the clump.

Propagation

It’s important to note here that unlike other houseplants (Monsteras or Pothos), Alocasia Ivory Coast cannot be propagated from cuttings.

If you take the plant out of its pot and explore the root system, you will find that it grows in a clumping style.

This means you will find that the plant exists as a group of multiple clumps, each healthy clump growing its offset. Here is a step-by-step guide for propagation:

Pull the root ball out of the pot and gently rake the roots to expose the separate clumps.
You can easily remove a clump and pot in a separate pot. The best thing about propagating Alocasia is that you don’t have to wait for it to root. The baby plant will already have its well-developed root system.
Plant the separated clump in the same potting mix as the mother Alocasia plant. You will notice the plants reacting to the transplant shock. The plant needs time to adjust to its new home, so no need to panic.
Make sure there are no air pockets in the soil when your plant the clumps back. Water the plant and place it in the shade.

Always be mindful of the time of the year propagation can take place. If you try to propagate your Alocasia Ivory Coast in the winters, you might just end up killing your plant altogether. Spring and summertime are the best for propagation.

Blooms

As it is a flowering species, your Alocasia Ivory Coast will flower. However, this will be a once-in-a-blue moon occasion.

Alocasia blooms result in unique seed pods hanging from the plant. Although it is a rare sight in gardens and among indoor plants, well-established plants can develop male and female flowers, and in turn, Alocasia seeds, which take months to mature.

Growth

In the right temperature and humidity conditions, Alocasias can grow a new leaf every week. And as the growing season progresses, the leaf size might double in just one week.

The remarkable leaves of this variety will grow between 7-35 inches (20-90 cm) in length, while the whole plant can go from 1.5 – 3 feet in height.

Unlike most other tropical species, Alocasia Ivory Coast grows vertically rather than horizontally. The new leaves in each clump will be higher than the previous one while remaining in almost the same position horizontally.

Common Problems with Alocasia Ivory Coast

Toxicity

Alocasia Ivory Coast is toxic to cats, dogs, and humans. So to avoid running into a problem, ensure that children and pets are well aware not to mess around with the plant.

Pests

Pests like spider mites love devouring Alocasia Ivory Coast foliage. Although adequate humidity levels are a good enough way to keep these pests at bay, you might need to spray mild insecticide in case things get out of hand.

Spider mites usually hide on the lower surface of Alocasia Ivory Coast leaves.

If you notice tiny white webs on the foliage, the culprit is most likely spider mites. The best way to get rid of these insects is to remove the highly infected leaves and treat the plant with an overall mild soapy water spray.

Diseases

Alocasia Ivory Coast is vulnerable to common houseplant diseases such as rhizome rot, stem rot, and leaf spot. All of these diseases essentially take root when you’re not watering your plant the right way. Proper watering practice is an excellent way to keep diseases at bay.

Rhizome rot is the most dangerous disease. If black or brown spots with a yellow halo appear on the leaves of your Alocasia Ivory Coast out of nowhere, the plant may be suffering from rhizome rot. Make sure the soil and the clump are not overly damp and regulate watering sessions.

Tips to Keep Alocasia Ivory Coast Problem-free

A well-maintained plant seldom throws a problem your way.

If you manage to consistently maintain the following aspects for your Alocasia Ivory Coast, not only will your plant look healthy, but it will stay healthy because of the plant’s strengthened immune system.

Always maintain consistent soil moisture.
Ensure adequate humidity levels (60-70%)
Make sure your plant receives adequate light (400 Foot Candles for good growth, minimum requirement: 200 Foot Candles).

Have You connect the OTHER Monstera, Monstera adansonii?

By now you’re probably well acquainted with Monstera deliciosa—that gigantic, sculptural houseplant straight out of Mad Men that currently appears in roughly 75 percent of all design bloggers’ Instagram posts. It’s adored equally for being easy to grow and looking good next to a mid-century sofa. But have you met its cousin, Monstera adansonii? Because we’d really like to introduce you.

Monsteras are often called Swiss cheese plants or vines for their leaves’ lacy holes and notches, and adansonii is arguably the cheesiest of them all. Its leaves are more perforated and delicate than deliciosa‘s and the plant is petite in comparison. And though all Monsteras are considered vines, adansonii has a trailing quality that makes it a good pick for hanging baskets or training around a room.

As with many plant species, there is a lot of confusion about the different types. You might hear them called friedrichsthalii by sellers and growers (which appears to be the same thing), or more commonly obliqua, which others say is not the same at all.

Ready to grow one? Here’s what you need to know.

How to Care for Monstera Adansonii

For all its delicate beauty, growing Monstera adansonii is fairly straightforward. Plant it in a pot with drainage holes using a standard potting soil that contains peat. (Peat helps to trap moisture without becoming waterlogged.) It will look best in a hanging basket or in a pot on a high shelf or somewhere else where its trailing vines can be shown off to advantage without getting in the way. Put the plant near a window where it will receive bright, but indirect, sunlight. Trim the vines as needed if they start to look scraggly to encourage new growth.

Watering is the trickiest part of caring for Monsteras. They like consistently moist soil but don’t want to be soggy. They also like high humidity, which can especially be a challenge in winter, so consider using a humidifier. Yellowing leaves are a common issue and indicate that something about your watering schedule is off. Test the soil with a finger before you water: at least the top inch should be dry. On the flip side, make sure you’re not giving it so much water that the top layer of soil remains wet for several days at a time. Watering once a week should do the trick, though you might need to experiment with frequency based on the temperature and humidity in your home.

Toxicity

According to the ASPCA, Monstera plants are toxic to animals. If you decide to get one, make sure you put it where your cats and dogs can’t eat the leaves, which can cause irritation, mouth swelling, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.

Propagation

It’s easy to grow baby Monstera adansonii from your current plant. Snip off a section of vine that includes at least two nodes (those knobby bits where the leaves form). Set the vine in a glass of water until roots form and then plant the cutting in soil. You’ll have a brand new plant to give to a friend or trade at a plant swap.

String of Turtles Care Guide

Peperomia Prostrata

If you’re looking for a stunning trailing succulent that is easy to propagate and even easier to care for, then you’ve come to the right place. A string of Turtles is known scientifically as Peperomia Prostrata and is characterized by its circular mottled leaves on a vining stem.

The leaves are reminiscent of a tortoise shell (hence its name) and seem as if they are located beneath a transparent film, thus giving the foliage a particularly interesting texture and appearance. The plant originates from South America, where it grows close to the ground.

Here’s a complete String of Turtles care guide, as well as watering tips and how to propagate the Peperomia Prostrata vining indoor plant. For more hanging plants, check out our guide to the best of trailing succulents. It’s also worth noting that in comparison with varieties such as the String of Pearls, String of Turtles is fairly low maintenance and easy to keep happy.

String of Turtles Care Guide

Watering your Peperomia Prostrata

For a semi-succulent plant, it’s worth noting that I need to water my string of turtles much more than many of my other succulent plants. If you notice that the leaves are starting to drop off more readily than you would like, then simply cut back on the watering. The number one sign of overwatering the string of turtles is that the plant leaves start to turn to mush or turn a shade of yellow/ brown.

Conversely, if the leaves start to wrinkle, then the plant likely isn’t receiving enough water. Like the rest of my succulent plants, I find that the best method for watering this Peperomia plant is the soak and leave. What this means is that I will leave the plant to dry out entirely between waterings before watering it once more. This significantly reduces the chance of root or leaf rot.

Best soil conditions for the String of Turtles

As a semi-succulent plant with juicy leaves, the String of Turtles is prone to both root rot, as well as leaf rot if the plant is given too much water and doesn’t dry out again quickly. As such, a well draining substrate is an absolute must.

I personally prefer a mix of organic soil with sand and grit. Most garden centres selling indoor houseplants will sell a soil mix which is particularly created for succulents, though, of course; there is no prescribed recipe and you can simply create your own.

When it comes to repotting the Peperomia Prostrata, you’ll find that you don’t need to change up pot sizes on a very regular basis. The root system is very shallow and is sooted to containers with a small depth. If in doubt, it is preferable to have a smaller as opposed to larger pot (which should be well-draining either way) in order to prevent the soil becoming waterlogged, and thus allowing the possibility of your plant developing root rot.

Best light conditions for the Peperomia Prostrata

Bright indirect light (with a heavy emphasis on having enough light) is best for most Peperomia plants. If the plant receives too much bright sunlight, then the leaves can burn, causing plant death in the most severe of cases.

When given the right conditions, this mottled green vining plant can bulk out pretty significantly, though never trails in the same manner as the String of Hearts, which you’ll likely have to eventually cut back. Furthermore, if optimum care requirements are achieved, then the plant can even produce small flowers, though they are not the most aesthetically pleasing of blooms.

String of Turtles Propagation

There are several methods you can use to propagate your String of Turtles, though some are more effective than others, while some are also quicker than others. The best time to propagate your indoor houseplant is during the spring or early summer (i.e. the growing season). This way, you’ll be giving your new plants the best possible chance of survival.

I personally find that the most effective way to propagate the Peperomia Prostrata is by taking cuttings from the semi-succulent and laying them atop a layer of soil, just as you would do with the String of Hearts. Water sparingly, so as to avoid root rot, and within a few weeks you’ll soon have a brand new plant. Alternatively, you can also root your cuttings in water, though I have often mixed results with this method.

Philodendron Verrucosum Care

Philodendron Verrucosum Plant Care Guide

Soil

Light

Watering

Temperature

Humidity

Fertilizer

Propagation

Growth

Potting

Philodendron Verrucosum Propagation

Stem cuttings

Air Layering

Seeds

Common Problems with Philodendron Verrucosum

Yellow Leaves

Drooping Leaves

Root Rot

Pest Infestation

Tips to keep Philodendron Verrucosum problem-free

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“What’s Wrong With My Monstera?” Monstera Leaf Troubleshooting

Why aren’t my monstera leaves splitting?

Monstera leaves may not split if they are too young or if the plant is not getting enough light.

What does it mean if monstera leaves turn yellow?

Yellow monstera leaves can mean it’s either getting too much water or not enough nutrients.

Why are there dark brown spots on my monstera leaves?

Dark brown spots on monstera leaves are a good indication of the plant getting too much water.

What do light brown spots with crispy edges on monstera leaves mean?

Light brown spots and crispy edges on monstera leaves mean the monstera needs more water.

Why is my monstera drooping?

A drooping monstera can mean it needs more water or more light.

It takes practice!

Related Questions

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How to Prune Sundew Leaves

Should You Prune a Cape Sundew?

How to Prune Sundew Leaves

Why Prune the Leaves on Your Cape Sundew?

How to Propagate Sundews: Leaf Cuttings

Containers for Cape Sundews

What to Feed Your Cape Sundew

Finalize

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Classification

Growing

Name

Characteristics

Foliage

Flowers

Care

Common Problems

Floppy, dull leaves

Repotting

Pests

FAQs About Peperomia Hope Care

Why are my Peperomia Hope leaves curling?

My Peperomia Hope leaves are falling off, what should I do?

Introduction

Calathea Rufibarba Plant Care & Watering Guide

Watering your Rufibarba Plant

Best soil conditions for Rufibarba Calathea

Best light conditions for Calathea Rufibarba

Is Begonia indoor or outdoor plant?
How do I take care of begonias?